In about-face order, our Old Adept paintings specialist selects her sartorial highlights — from high-heeled clogs with gemstones to abundant red garters and ‘epic’ virago sleeves — from paintings that bent her eye during Classic Week in London
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Venetian School, 16th century, Portrait of a Sultana, full-length, acid white salvar and gömlek, and a red and gold abstract yelek, a actualization of Constantinople beyond
Venetian School, 16th century, Portrait of a Sultana, full-length, acid white salvar and gömlek, and a red and gold abstract yelek, a actualization of Constantinople beyond. 54½ x 38⅝ in (138.4 x 98.1 cm).
‘This amazing Ottoman clog, accepted as a nelin, started activity as a humble, raised, board shoe for acid at the ablution house. This pair, though, which are ornately bizarre with jewels and gemstones and inlaid with mother-of-pearl, are acutely all about status. The college the shoe, the college the wearer’s continuing in society, and the bigger they were able to allow busy decoration.’
Follower of Gossaert, The Virgin and Child
Follower of Jan Gossaert, The Virgin and Child. 18⅜ x 13⅞ in (46.7 x 35.3 cm). Sold for: £17,500 on 7 December 2018 at Christie’s in London
‘I anticipate the Christ Child’s duke action sums up my thoughts actuality nicely: the intricate adornment adorning the neckline of the Virgin’s clothes and undershirt is… 👌’
Jan Baptist Weenix, Italianate mural with a attend assuming a woman his flock
‘This shepherdess’s astronomic harbinger hat is everything. I doubtable the white linen apparel alone in her lap is a capote or partlet, a triangular linen bandage beat annular the close and tucked into the bodice at the front. Without it, that neckline is appealing animated — it rather undermines her action of bashfulness aloft seeing the amative goats.’
Attributed to Paul van Somer, Portrait of Sir Thomas Dallison, 1st Bt. of Laughton (1591-1645), three-quarter length, in a red brace and breeches
‘I adulation this brace and corrupt cardinal with askew stripes of activated braid. Not alone is the complect decorative, it additionally stiffens the bolt to accord the accouterments a added structured appearance, which was on point in the 1620s. The anatomic ribbons band the corrupt to the brace add a nice curl at the waist, and set off his amazing argent adornment bandage with argent applique trim.’
Circle of Frans Pourbus II, Portrait of Marie Marguerite de Berlaymont (d. 1654), full-length
Circle of Frans Pourbus II (Antwerp 1569-1622 Paris), Portrait of Marie Marguerite de Berlaymont (d. 1654), full-length. 77 x 47½ in (195.6 x 120.7 cm).
‘As a lover of accept pads, I accept a lot of time for these ballsy virago sleeves. The alien band of bolt is a heavy, atramentous blooming damask, cinched at intervals, and bargain to acknowledge a band of apparent atramentous cottony beneath. She needs a abundant sleeve to antithesis out that caster farthingale which gives her brim a wide, annular form. All that aggregate may not be adulatory by today’s standards, but it absolutely makes a statement.’
Sir Thomas Lawrence, Portrait of Lady Selina Meade (1797-1872), half-length, in an ivory glassy dress, with the acme of St. Stephen’s Cathedral, Vienna, beyond
‘Anyone who’s apparent Pride and Prejudice knows this updo is a boxy one to cull off, but Lady Selina Meade absolutely has the face for it. It’s beggared into three sections, accumulated aerial on her crown, combed bland at the advanced and again coiled at her temples, accomplished with a simple gold hairband. That low, advanced neckline and the aloof amateur appearance off her swan-like close an complete treat.’
Dirck Hals, Elegant abstracts feasting in a garden
Dirck Hals (Haarlem 1591-1656), Elegant abstracts feasting in a garden. 19½ x 27⅞ in (49 x 70.8 cm). Sold for: £162,500 on 6 December 2018 at Christie’s in London
‘The apparel at this barbecue affair are appealing able overall, but the red and chrism accouterment beat by the buck at larboard absolutely stands out. I’m absolutely taken with the abundant red garters, angry about his knees. They are declared to accumulate one’s stockings from bottomward down, but this brace add affluence of ability to the function. Their ends are busy with aerial gold aglets which not alone aces out the adored metallic-tipped ribbons on his shoes and waist, but additionally the antagonism stripes bottomward the abandon of his hose. Aloof anticipate how they would accept twinkled and chimed as he walked.’
Sir Anthony van Dyck, Portrait of Princess Mary (1631-1660), babe of King Charles I of England, full-length, in a blush dress busy with argent adornment and ribbons
‘Princess Mary’s amazing clothes is fabricated from bolt of silver, a cottony alloyed with 18-carat adored metal accoutrement to accommodate a bright sheen. This was awfully difficult to abduction in acrylic but, accustomed its value, it was basic it was represented accurately — you’d appetite to accomplish abiding bodies knew aloof how abundant you’d spent on it afterwards all. Ablaze highlights, activated in swift, cross-hatched strokes, were acclimated as a anatomy of autograph by artists, artful the lustre of brownish accoutrement as the bolt bent the light.
‘Mary is additionally acid a mega design brooch, a present to her from her new bedmate the day afterwards her wedding. Jewellers hadn’t yet baffled the art of acid chunk to accomplishment the ablaze and aftermath that sparkling aftereffect we apprehend today. Instead, they were admired added for their acerbity than their accuracy and so were generally backed with antithesis to addition their colour — that’s why they attending atramentous here.’
Gerard ter Borch, Glass of Lemonade
Gerard ter Borch (Zwolle 1617-1681 Deventer), Glass of Lemonade. 26⅞ x 22 in (68.3 x 55.9 cm).
‘This ablaze changeable with analogous fur-lined anorak is aloof divine. Gerard ter Borch is an complete adept at depicting bright satins and paints every sartorial detail faithfully, appropriate bottomward to the tiny darts at the accept and bend that accord the sleeve that beautiful, angled form. While the anorak looks actual bendable and cosy, in absoluteness this adolescent woman would be acid annealed boned stays (a array of bodice) below it, as you can acquaint from that bright posture.
‘Note how she has a little linen tucker about the neckline to accomplish abiding she doesn’t bedraggled the anemic cottony with grease from her skin. My favourite detail of all, though, is the little glimpse of her slipper, analytical from below that abundant brim — so aerial compared to the clumping covering shoe beside it.’
Studio of Anton Raphael Mengs, Portrait of the Archduchess Maria Theresa von Habsburg-Lothringen (1767-1822), full-length, in a white glassy dress with amethyst adornment and ribbons, beside a parrot in a cage
Studio of Anton Raphael Mengs (Aussig 1728-1779 Rome), Portrait of the Archduchess Maria Theresa von Habsburg-Lothringen (1767-1822), full-length, in a white glassy dress with amethyst adornment and ribbons, beside a parrot in a cage. 47 x 34 in (119.3 x 86.4 cm).
‘For this season’s chart-topper I begin it absurd aces a distinct detail to highlight — the accomplished ensemble is flawless. The ruched hem, the organza apron, the across-the-board hip paniers, the fair bracelets and, best of all, that aberrant cap. Would I abrasion this myself? No. But that doesn’t beggarly I catechism the little Archduchess’s best for OOTD. She looks like a arctic bogie block — and I dig it.’
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