Jenny Shircore has done the architecture and beard of several queens over the years: Cate Blanchett in “Elizabeth” and “Elizabeth: The Golden Age” (she won an Oscar for the former) and Emily Blunt in “The Adolescent Victoria.”
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In fact, she had to be assertive to do it afresh for Saoirse Ronan’s Queen Mary and Margot Robbie’s Queen Elizabeth in Focus Features’ “Mary Queen of Scots,” appear Dec. 7, because she acquainted she had already thoroughly covered the period. It was apparel artist Alexandra Byrne, her acceptable acquaintance and collaborator, who told her that this time was activity to be different.
“When I aboriginal talked to [director] Josie [Rourke] about Margot Robbie, who plays Elizabeth I,” Shircore recalls, “I asked her if she would appetite her to attending like ‘Margot Robbie’ on that awning or if I could change her — change her eyes, her eyebrows, her nose, her lips. She told me to go advanced and change her.”
The aftermost time Shircore created the look for the appearance Queen Elizabeth, the queen didn’t accept to ache the smallpox she survives in this film. “I used that as my way to get Margot to eventually attending like the iconic Elizabeth the First,” says Shircore. “I took the admirable adolescent babe and covered her in blisters and big accessible sores, which eventually access and broiled and larboard her with a alveolate and aching face.”
Shircore fabricated assertive to put the blisters on the areas that she eventually capital to awning up or change, and through that was able to accomplish Robbie’s aperture smaller, her adenoids narrower and bright her eyebrows.
Along with Byrne’s costumes, Shircore aimed to add a avant-garde blow to the film’s look. For instance, the queens’ beard is “more structured,” says Shircore. “Not so abounding adorned curls and things, not so abounding frills. This gave us a backbone and a added avant-garde feel.”
In adjustment to transform the two actresses into character, the architecture aggregation formed on them in their chairs for hours. Ronan’s beginning attending was simpler to do, but her beard was added complicated and appropriate two hours. For Robbie, on abundant architecture days, it was about three hours: There was a bark action to create, a abrasion wig that complex a baldheaded cap beneath and, of course, the iconic abundant white architecture Queen Elizabeth I was accepted for.
And back architecture in the 16th aeon was alloyed with mercury and added alarming substances, Shircore had to acquisition the avant-garde agnate to break accurate to her aesthetic visions. To that end, she formed with architecture chemists. “I explain how I appetite it to look, what I appetite it to do, that I charge it to aftermost for eight hours and that it needs to appear off easily,” she says. “Then we formed it out together.
“There are so abounding accomplished chemists in the blur industry [that accomplish all these] palettes and glues and powders,” she adds. “If you charge a little crumb to accomplish a appearance attending agleam and wet, you go to them and they’ll do it for you.”
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