The arete of the affable is about beside the point at Osteria Francescana — and 11 Madison Park, and Can Roca, and Noma. You apprehend it to be perfect, the way you apprehend an opera orchestra to be impeccably rehearsed, but its best important assignment is to actuate the anecdotal dream. Chef Virgilio Martinez’s Central in Lima, this year’s No. 6, arranges its card by the distance in Peru area the aliment was grown. Mugaritz, at No. 9, flavors its aliment with the nonaggressive herbs built-in to its Basque hillside. Den in Tokyo, No. 17, finishes its commons with “Dentucky Fried Chicken,” a bananas booty on the colonel’s standard. I already spent a folio or two of book aggravating to explain why the acquaintance of plucking a gilded olive from a alive olive timberline at Can Roca seemed like magic, and I cited added classical sources than in annihilation I’d accounting back college. Narisawa, at No. 22, is acclaimed for his admirable comestible diorama of a Japanese backwoods floor, occasionally supplemented by sounds piped in from the woods.
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