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On a backward summer day in a Hollywood photo studio, extra Sanaa Lathan sat patiently in advanced of a vanity mirror and countertop abounding with brushes, bottles and containers of beard and architecture products.

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She was amidst by a adorableness aggregation she trusted, celebrity hairstylist Larry Sims and architecture artisan Saisha Beecham, who fluttered about her, blow-drying her short, authentic curls and affecting up her eyeliner and mascara, all while she answered questions about her afresh appear Netflix film, “Nappily Ever After,” over the beard dryer’s connected hum.

It was a applicable setting. The film, about an ad controlling who suffers a crushing heartbreak, uses beard as a agent to appraise the accurate struggles atramentous women face.

While cutting the film, Lathan’s beard adventure mirrored Violet’s, the actualization she plays. She absolute her hair, acclimated a array of wigs and in the film’s best memorable scene, took a razor to her albino hair, atom it bottomward to the scalp. Lathan said the arena was absolute — she autonomous to barber her own beard instead of application a baldheaded cap.

“Once I did the reveal, I was aloof afraid about the response,” Lathan said. “It was about like bodies were adage I attending bigger with it.”

In one big way, however, Lathan’s beard adventure was adapted from the actualization she plays in the Netflix feature. Her mom encouraged her to embrace her accustomed beard from a adolescent age. “My mother was absolutely acceptable about instilling in me that it’s beautiful,” the extra said.

Even so, she added, “[My mom] has actual thick, coiled hair, added adjoin the European ancillary of texture, and I bethink adulatory my accomplished adolescence that I had that — OWW!”

Almost as if the beard gods were putting in their two cents, the commotion — the styling, the makeup, the account — became too abundant as the calefaction of the draft dryer got a little too abutting to her skin. “OW!”

Although briefly overwhelmed, Lathan took a animation and kept talking. Afterwards all, she knew she was with adorableness pros who accepted how to cautiously assignment with her beard arrangement and bark blush to accomplish her pop on camera.

As a atramentous extra who fabricated a name for herself in “Love and Basketball,” “The Best Man” and added adventurous comedies in the backward 1990s and aboriginal 2000s, she hasn’t consistently had admission to beard stylists who could advertise her accustomed beard — or producers who would alike appetite that look.

Lathan’s not alone. Atramentous actresses, whether by best or beneath burden from Hollywood, accept adapted their accustomed beard to address to boilerplate audiences aback their aboriginal appearances in blur and television — from Josephine Baker’s plastered-down coif in 1934’s “Zouzou” and Hattie McDaniel’s assistant roles in “Gone With the Wind” and above in which a tied-up bandage generally hid her hair.

But lately, as added atramentous filmmakers and showrunners accretion artistic control, there has been an actualization of projects that advertise the assortment of atramentous activity — and beard styles. This year’s Marvel blockbuster “Black Panther” was the best advertise yet of the array of atramentous hairstyles. And contempo TV shows, including “Black-ish,” “Insecure,” “She’s Gotta Accept It,” “Dear White People” and “Queen Sugar,” consistently actualization off and allocution about issues about the abounding agency atramentous women abrasion their hair.

“We accept organized about this Eurocentric accepted of adorableness about alone until actual recently,” said adeptness analyzer and above Essence actualization and adeptness editor Michaela Angela Davis. “This abstraction of aggravating to accommodate to a accepted that makes white bodies feel comfortable, that’s absolutely what it is. The abstraction of atramentous hair’s disability to lay bottomward is a allegory for our attrition and it has been a point of contention.”

Understanding the attempt of atramentous women’s beard on awning is additionally compassionate that atramentous women’s beard — which can ambit from apart after-effects to deeply arranged coils — goes abundant added than a style. It’s circuitous up in aching history, politics, chase and gender.

During slavery, white owners acclimated markers including bark blush and beard arrangement to actualize an approximate bureaucracy amid slaves. Those with added European features, such as lighter bark and loose, bouncing textured hair, had a college cachet than others with abnormally sub-Saharan African features.

Even afterwards slavery, atramentous bodies with lighter bark and looser coil patterns were generally able to accomplish a college cachet in society. Tools that helped atramentous women align their hair, such as actinic relaxers and heat, additionally helped some women bigger digest into their communities.

Eurocentric adorableness preferences additionally connected to the argent screen. From the 1930s through abundant of the 1960s, if atramentous women weren’t arena disciplinarian or servants, they were generally brought on as featured performers cutting hairstyles connected with white bistro singers. Alike Lena Horne and Dorothy Dandridge, who becoming starring roles in some of Hollywood’s attenuate atramentous musicals (“Cabin in the Sky” and “Stormy Weather” for Horne, “Carmen Jones” for Dandridge), wore beard that apish accepted white styles of the time.

In 1966, Nichelle Nichols, as “Star Trek’s” Lt. Uhura, became one of the aboriginal atramentous actresses to be a approved casting affiliate in a arrangement actualization arena a role that was neither assistant nor singer. Two years later, Diahann Carroll fabricated history as the brilliant of “Julia,” the aboriginal arrangement actualization centered about a atramentous woman who wasn’t a servant. Although Nichols’ and Caroll’s signature hairstyles acquired over the advance of their shows, they were alien to their TV audiences in the elevated, hairspray-heavy coif accepted as the bouffant.

Bouffant, beehives, bobs — these were some of the accepted hairstyles of the 1960s, and the hairstyles atramentous women wore on screen.

1960

(Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences.)

1960

Juanita Moore and Ella Fitzgerald

Juanita Moore, apparent actuality with accompanist Ella Fitzgerald at the 1960 Academy Awards, was nominated for an Oscar for her achievement in 1959’s “Imitation of Life.” For the role she wore her beard in a abbreviate and coiled style.

1968

1968

Diahann Carroll

Diahann Carroll played a assistant and abandoned audible mother in the 1968 ball “Julia.” In aboriginal seasons, Carroll’s beard was styled in the animated coif accepted as the bouffant.

1968

(Photo by CBS via Getty Images)

1968

Nichelle Nichols

As Lt. Uhura in the aboriginal “Star Trek” series, Nichelle Nichols wore her beard in a bouffant style.

The civilian rights movement led to abandon in claimed style, as atramentous bodies began accomplishment their accustomed hair. That atramentous pride additionally connected into Hollywood, arch to the blaxploitation blur era that acutely featured actresses such as Pam Grier cutting amazing Afros in films including “Coffy” and “Foxy Brown.”

“With the atramentous adeptness actualization came a adapted way of attractive on screen,” said Christine Acham, a accurate arts accessory assistant at USC. “There was a added accustomed attending and a beneath acceptable Hollywood look. There was a lot of movement about Angela Davis’ angel on her FBI poster, and we could see it construe over to film.”

Diana Ross appeared in an Afro and gold bandage earrings on the awning of her 1971 abandoned anthology “Surrender.” And as the brilliant of the 1975 Berry Gordy blur “Mahogany,” she goes through a ambit of white and atramentous hairstyles as she chooses amid the atrocious apple of aerial actualization and her association activist accurate adulation played by Billy Dee Williams.

The blaxploitation blur era in the 1970s led to a new way of actualization on awning with the actualization of the Afro.

1973

(Coffy / American International Picture)

1973

Pam Grier

Pam Grier sports her iconic picked-out Afro in the 1973 blaxploitation blur “Coffy.”

1973

(Photo by Warner Brothers/Getty Images)

1973

Tamara Dobson

In the 1973 blaxploitation blur “Cleopatra Jones,” Tamara Dobson plays a angry government super-agent who sports a magnificient Afro.

1975

(Photo by CBS Photo Archive/Getty Images)

1975

Esther Rolle and casting of ‘Good Times’

“Good Times,” a ball about a ancestors authoritative the best of activity while active in a Chicago apartment project, showcased a array of hairstyles, including braids, curls and Afros. Ancestors dame Florida Evans, played by Esther Rolle, sports a “natural” or Afro.

Spike Lee’s 1988 blur “School Daze” offered up a aciculate appraisal of capacity amid aphotic and blanched associates of the atramentous association — including the agreeable cardinal “Good and Bad Hair.” And Whoopi Goldberg wore locs in “Jumpin’ Jack Flash” and abounding added films, while rappers Salt N Pepa aggressive girls all over the country to imitate their absurd haircuts — an adventitious actualization of call that was improvised aback Pepa austere her hair during a perm. Overall, however, the 1980s and 1990s saw a acknowledgment to a added Eurocentric accepted of adorableness for atramentous women on screen.

Felicia Leatherwood, broadly accepted for auspicious celebrities to embrace their accustomed hair, is the hairstylist abaft Issa Rae’s accustomed hairstyles on HBO’s “Insecure.” But growing up with kinky-coily textured hair, Leatherwood said she didn’t generally see herself reflected on TV and film.

The 1980s abundantly saw a acknowledgment to a added Eurocentric accepted of adorableness in blur and TV with big volume, after-effects and bendable curls as the norm.

1983

(Images Press / Getty Images)

1983

Jennifer Beals

Jennifer Beals’ coiled abandoned cut in “Flashdance” became an iconic 1980s look.

1986

(20th Century Fox / Getty Images)

1986

Whoopi Goldberg

Whoopi Goldberg helped acquaint locs to the boilerplate in films including 1986’s “Jumpin’ Jack Flash.”

1988

1988

Jasmine Guy and others in “School Daze”

Spike Lee’s 1988 blur “School Daze” explores capacity aural the atramentous association at a historically atramentous university. One all-female agreeable cardinal in the film, “Straight and Nappy,” pits dark-skinned “nappy-headed” women adjoin light-skinned, accomplished “wannabees.”

“We had ‘Diff’rent Strokes’ aback again and ‘Facts of Life’… Some of the mothers that were earlier had Afros, which meant that aback you anticipation of an Afro, you appealing abundant anticipation of an earlier woman who accomplished aggregate she capital in life,” Leatherwood said. “But you didn’t accept adolescent women that aggressive you to abrasion your beard accustomed aback I was young.”

Several actresses recalled their own adventures auditioning for blur and television roles in the 1990s and aboriginal 2000s, with connected requests for long, beeline hair.

“When we were advancing up, we couldn’t abrasion our beard natural,” Lathan said. “It was aloof about the time that weaves were advancing in, or you’d be activity up adjoin somebody who was maybe biracial and would accept connected hair. I actually got the acknowledgment many, abounding times, can she attending added like this babe who has beard bottomward to here.”

Erika Alexander, who played Maxine Shaw on the 1990s alternation “Living Single,” said she was encouraged to accumulate a accustomed attending aback she got her alpha in theater.

“When I started showbiz, there were no [black] ingenues. I wasn’t looked at as appealing or elegant,” Alexander said. “I was assassin to attending ‘foster care’ or a slave.”

Sleek duster were accepted for atramentous women in 1990s blur and TV. But audible atramentous hairstyles including box braids and micro braids additionally began authoritative an appearance.

1995

1995

Angela Bassett

Angela Bassett sports glassy duster in 1995’s “Waiting to Exhale.”

1996

1996

Living Audible cast

From Maxine’s iconic nu-locs, to Khadijah’s airy hair, to Regine’s wigs and Synclaire’s microbraids, “Living Single” showcased a advanced ambit of atramentous hairstyles during its run.

After actuality asked by his adolescent daughter, “Daddy, how appear I don’t accept acceptable hair,” actor Chris Rock was aggressive to accomplish a documentary exploring atramentous women’s admiration for beeline hair. Premiering at the Sundance Blur Anniversary in 2009, “Good Hair” — called afterwards the anachronous and loaded appellation that has been acclimated to call atramentous beard that resembles white beard textures — featured interviews with atramentous actresses including Nia Connected and Raven-Symoné and took a analytical attending at the multi-billion dollar atramentous beard industry, which generally pushes weaves and actinic straighteners.

“If you’re not seeing yourself reflected,” Lathan said, “if you’re alone seeing article that’s not you…what does that do to your cocky worth?”

In the aftermost few years, decidedly on TV, beard has become a affectionate of autograph way of assuming what it agency to be a atramentous woman. In a acute arena on a 2014 adventure of “How to Get Away with Murder,” aloof aegis advocate Annalise Keating, played by Viola Davis, strips off her short, beeline wig to acknowledge her kinky-textured accustomed hair. In the “black-ish” aftereffect “Grown-ish” on Freeform, Yara Shahidi’s character, Zoey Johnson, is apparent befitting her beard captivated in scarves at night.

The beeline beard trend connected in the aboriginal 2000s, with airy beard and weaves accepted for atramentous women in blur and TV.

2005

(AP Photo/Justin Lubin, The CW)

2005

Girlfriends stars

Tracee Ellis Ross’ natural, abundant curls stood out amid long, beeline hairstyles in the aboriginal 2000s ball “Girlfriends.”

2005

(Alfeo Dixon / Lions Gate Films)

2005

Kimberly Elise

In Tyler Perry’s admission affection film, “Diary of a Mad Atramentous Woman,” Kimberly Elise plays Helen and wears her beard in a coiled style.

“Television is arch the way with ‘Insecure,’ ” biographer Michaela Angela Davis said. “Molly with her weaves and accumulated look, Issa with accustomed hairstyles…and bougie Amanda headpieces and albino — the casting of ‘Insecure’ has every affectionate of beard personality in there.”

Hollywood standouts — amid them Viola Davis abnegating her wig for a circumscribed Afro at the 2012 Oscars, the acceleration of Lupita Nyong’o who sports abbreviate kinky-textured beard and director Ava DuVernay’s long locs — actualization that the industry is boring communicable up to the natural beard movement, which began acrimonious up beef in the aboriginal 2000s.

In contempo years, there has been an access of atramentous women cutting their accustomed beard and a array of added hairstyles including braids, locs and weaves on blur and TV.

2016

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

2016

Tracee Ellis Ross

Tracee Ellis Ross wears a array of accustomed hairstyles as anesthesiologist Rainbow Johnson on the ball “black-ish.”

2017

(Tyler Golden / Freeform)

2017

grown-ish

In the “black-ish” aftereffect “grown-ish,” college-aged Zoey Johnson (played by Yara Shahidi) wears a array of accustomed hairstyles. She’s alike apparent befitting her beard captivated in scarves at night.

2017

2017

Stars of ‘Insecure’

Although “Insecure” is generally accepted for Issa Dee’s (Issa Rae) accustomed hairstyles, the actualization additionally depicts a array of added accepted hairstyles for atramentous millennial women including weaves, wigs and braids.

2018

(Matt Kennedy / Marvel Studios)

2018

‘Black Panther’ cast

The 2018 superhero blur “Black Panther” showcased a array of artistic accustomed hairstyles for both men and women. Camille Friend, “Black Panther’s” arch hairstylist, said that she took afflatus from the Zulu, Maasai and Hima African tribes, as able-bodied as the accustomed beard movement and the Afropunk movement.

2018

(Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)

2018

Sanaa Lathan

Violet, the advance actualization in Netflix’s “Nappily Ever After,” played by Sanaa Lathan, goes on a mini-hair adventure including accepting a weave, dying her beard albino and again atom it off afterwards a crushing breakup.

“In the aftermost brace of years, I feel like there’s been a absolute revolution,” said “black-ish” brilliant Tracee Ellis Ross. “This is what I’m activity to accept for myself — to be who I am and abrasion my beard as I choose, aback I accept — whether that is a wig, a braid or my accustomed texture, or braids or whatever it is.”

But alike in contempo years, Lathan has formed on sets area hairstylists didn’t apperceive how to assignment with atramentous hair. One foolproof adjustment to ensure her beard charcoal advantageous is to aloof do it herself, including bringing her own wigs, to accomplish abiding she can feel assured on screen.

“Every hairstylist says, ‘I apperceive how to do atramentous hair.’ My analysis is, ‘Do you apperceive how to use a stove?’ ” Lathan said, laughing. “And usually, they’ll say no.”

“Everybody has a adventure of activity on set and accepting addition go, ‘Uh, able-bodied let me aloof coil it with a crimper iron,’ and these women are cutting beard natural,” said Simone Missick, who plays Misty Knight on Netflix’s “Luke Cage.” “There’s this association for actors, we all allotment our belief and adventures and allotment tips to advice anybody accumulate themselves from activity bald.”

“If I don’t accept your hair, I don’t accept you,” Michaela Angela Davis said. “You abolish this adeptness for her to be complete or honest as this black, avant-garde babe if her beard is whack.”

Believability and representation in accepted adeptness has abiding effects. Both Alexander and Lathan recalled their childhoods aback they dreamed of accepting long, beeline hair. “We got our beard washed, and the towels, and acted like that was our long, admirable hair,” Alexander said. “For that time, you acquainted normal.”

“Nappily Ever After’s” ambassador Tracey Bing, who went to predominantly white schools and was never blessed with her beard as a child, said, “I never had a baby that looked like me. And I admiration how my angel of myself would’ve afflicted if I did.”

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Credits: Production by Andrea Roberson

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