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The best belled bowl offered at Assemblage Burger in Lackawanna is a chaw in the aperture delivered in burger form.

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The Demon Burger is begrimed with an accursed aroma mixture, powered by cayenne, atramentous pepper and chile powders, anchored into the beef’s apparent as it sizzles on the griddle. That it looks like armament is alone a coincidence.

Jalapeno and assistant peppers add bursts of acerbic heat. Swiss American cheese and garlic mayonnaise tamps bottomward the inferno, which flickers aback to activity with anniversary bite. I started afraid two bites in, but the brilliant of Assemblage Burger’s specialty burger calendar – champ of Best Overall Bowl at the 2018 Taste of Buffalo – kept me riveted.

Like the old-school World Angry Federation bouts that sometimes absorb diners from the restaurant’s big wall-mounted flatscreen, it’s anxiously calibrated violence. It’s as attenuate – and as abundant fun – as watching addition get hit with a folding chair.

Stack Burger is at 1506 Abbott Road, Lackawanna. (Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News)

Joe Maurino and Anthony Giangrosso opened their aboriginal area in 2015, in West Seneca. One, two and three smashed-and-griddled patties with raggedy edges that crisped up were the capital event. The specials lath showcased artistic burgers. It was a take-out spot, but bodies would sit in their car to eat their purchases hot off the griddle.

When Assemblage Burger won added attention, it was for ambrosia – a deep-fried peanut adulate and clabber sandwich that took Chair’s Choice and Best Overall at the 2016 Taste. In August, the Lackawanna area opened, giving admirers a adventitious to eat off a table instead of a dashboard.

It’s a scruffy allowance busy with 1980s anthology covers (“Blackout,” “Master of Puppets,” “Purple Rain”) and a mirror emblazoned with the restaurant’s motto: Assemblage It Up. Service was alert and the babble akin wasn’t onerous, as continued as you’re acceptable with beard metal or wrestling.

Stack Burger’s TLC is a quarter-pound burger topped with chili and cheese. (Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News)

The Demon leads a agenda of specialty burgers ($8.49-$8.99) that includes some absolute characters.

Meet Vinny. Like all Assemblage Burgers, it starts with 4 ounces of arena beef, burst bottomward into the battercake so the edges get a adventitious to crisp, and acclimatized as it sizzles. So abundant mozzarella is accumulated over the Vinny that it flows on to the griddle, basal a aureate candelabrum of absurd cheese that sticks out from the bun. Spicy attitude comes from a animating base blooming pepper appetite and brittle pepperoni.

[Related: Seven Buffalo burgers to cast over]

Another bout de battercake is the French Onion burger. The beef is topped with the affectionate of dank, adhesive alliums that aftereffect from a pot of French onion soup alive all the way bottomward to jam. The bun is broiled crouton style, again a provolone cape broiled about to blaze beneath a salamander.

Stack Burger’s French Onion burger is a quarter-pound burger topped with broiled onions, broiled cheese and French onion spread. (Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News)

There’s alike a burger with two broiled cheese sandwiches as buns. The X-Treme Broiled Cheese puts a raspberry cheese advance to assignment as well. Can you accept too abundant cheese? You’ll apperceive afterwards this.

Despite the adventure rides, accede the basal audible cheeseburgers ($5.60). Pay a brace of added dollars, bifold the meat to a half-pound ($7.70), and bandy out the accepted Thousand-Island-like Assemblage booze for the ancho mayo. It’s a able chile liquor showcasing the acid raisins-on-steroids resonance of ancho chiles, acid abutting on bitter, backed up with garlic and a blow of sweetness. That’s a accomplished blow on a accomplished sub-$8 burger.

If alone it came in pink. Assemblage Burger doesn’t bear rosy-in-the-middle burgers, behind to medium-well. There was abundant damp larboard in anniversary chaw of beef, though.

Stack Burger’s Hangover is a quarter-pound burger topped with blubbery cut bacon, cheese, assortment browns, assemblage booze and an brilliant ancillary up egg. (Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News)

Chicken sandwiches were addition matter. Thin cutlets of absurd chicken, as in the Craven Parm ($8.99), were boxy beneath the marinara and mozzarella. Marinated broiled craven ($7.79) was an admirably aged allotment of poultry, acicular up with garlic-Parmesan mayonnaise that overcame coriaceous edges.

A Caesar bloom ($6.99) came dotted with bag croutons, which usually agency packet dressing. Again beginning garlic started crunching in my teeth, and the audible pong of anchovy came through – this was beginning from-scratch bathrobe (eggless, Giangrosso said). The bowl would accept been alike bigger with the promised pepperoncini.

Battered pickles ($4.49) had a acceptable abruptness with caraway seeds in the beer batter, the acidity two-thirds of the way to beef on weck. Crunchy onion rings, clad in herbed crumbs, accustomed ample on a spindle. House-cut chips were beginning but unexceptional, bettered by the animated sauces.

The deep-fried peanut adulate and clabber comes with a loganberry sauce, peanut adulate dribble and aerated grape cream. (Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News)

Save allowance for the corruption of a peanut adulate and clabber sandwich ($4.99), aged and absurd to a crisp, with acrid peanut sauce, loganberry syrup, and best of all, aerated chrism that triggers adolescence memories of grape Kool-Aid. For addition $1.49, get it with a beat of ice cream. You didn’t appear this far to authority aback now.

For a double-fisted burger acquaintance that delivers a abounding Nelson of flavor, Assemblage Burger’s aloof the ticket.

RESTAURANT REVIEW

Stack Burger – 7 plates (out of 10)

Location: 1506 Abbott Road, Lackawanna, 288-8204

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Prices: appetizers $2.99-$13.49, burgers and sandwiches $5.60-$11.48

Parking: lot

Wheelchair access: yes

Gluten-free: buns available.

Stackburger’s aboriginal sit-down area is in Lackawanna. (Sharon Cantillon/Buffalo News)

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